I meet many actresses and TV personalities in the course of my work, and most are not stunningly beautiful all the time. In fact lots are very plain and a few are downright ugly. But they are all human, and when they look in the mirror, they too can see blemishes that make them cringe. They notice the odd spot, a few more lines and a face that has lost its firmness and become a bit too fleshy. But they are fortunate, because in their business, help is often on hand, in the form of a make-up artist. From these skilled people they learn some tricks and know how to make the best of themselves. I too am lucky enough to have worked with many of the best make-up artists and hairstylists. I’ve learnt a few tricks of the trade and I have seen for myself, how the use of colour and good technique can enhance beauty and disguise faults.
At home we can learn to adapt some of these tricks to our advantage. So start by taking a long hard look at yourself in the mirror. Be honest with what you see! The problem is that most of us will focus on the things we don't like about ourselves. If you do that you won’t see a thing! We need to scrutinise our faces and acknowledge what is attractive about them. Recognise the good points you see in the mirror today, not to be confused with what you used to see, what was attractive, some years ago! We need to be honest and realistic about what we see now and to be realistic with ourselves. Only then can you learn to play up your good points, rather than just trying to hide the bad ones. You need to be positive in your approach, not negative.
Think back to your youth, do you remember when you were 17? I do, and I remember wanting to wear make up in order to make me appear grown up, and older than I was. I know I applied it very badly, and I must have looked absolutely ghastly. I had very little skill or technique, and the awful result probably added 5 years to my looks! Today, many mature women are still applying the same colours and techniques as they did 20 or 30 years ago when they were first experimenting with make-up. Make up artists and beauty consultants are able to judge a woman's age, simply from the way she wears her make up. Many mature women let themselves get stuck in a time warp, and some won’t have changed their p products, colours, or application, since they first tried things out as a teenager.
Correctly applied make up can easily take 5 or 10 years off a face. It's just a question of knowing how to do it correctly! But remember a good make -up is one that looks good for you, regardless of fashion, brand or price. Whether you wear lots, little, or no make up at all, one golden rule must apply. Always protect your skin. Protect it from pollution, the elements, and particularly the sun, with creams and gels containing a SPF (Sun Protection Factor).
Like it or loathe it, make-up is a godsend when it comes to hiding signs of fatigue. Over recent years, beauty scientists have been able to design cosmetics specifically for weary skin. They now put light reflecting pigments into foundations, blushers and eye shadows. These light reflecting pigments brighten the face, and put lines and blemishes into soft focus. These products are a boon for mature skin – I know!
FOUNDATION
Do you have trouble trying to buy a suitable foundation? Well you are not alone; it is a common problem for many women. You select a bottle or tube which you think is just right for you, but when you apply it at home, it's likely to be the wrong colour, and probably also the wrong texture. Many women think they can compensate for age by hiding behind more make-up, or one of a darker, or thicker texture. Well doesn’t work. On the contrary, rather than disguising the flaws, too much make up accentuates them, because too much foundation simply collects into the lines on the face.
When a television make-up artist wants to age a character, they will apply a thick layer of foundation to the face. The actress or actor is asked to wrinkle up their face, powder is then applied, liberally. The result is an older face, with every line and wrinkle accentuated!
Foundation tends to stick to any dry patches on the face. This also has an ageing effect and will make the patches even more noticeable. The result is an even older looking skin than it would have appeared without any make up at all. A light and youthful look can be achieved by making up without any foundation at all. You could experiment by just using moisturiser and a little pressed powder. As the years go by I have personally found, that "less is best" when it comes to make up. Regular use of make-up is thought to accelerate facial ageing and the some of the best complexions of middle aged women I know, are those who have used very little make-up.
As we grow older our skin, like our hair loses some of its colour, so it's important to keep changing the shade of your foundation with the years. Foundation is designed to even out skin tones. Try to choose one which matches your skin tone exactly and one of a texture which you feel is comfortable. Don't make the common mistake of trying to add colour to your face with foundation. You can do that with blusher or lipstick. The rule is to only apply a light foundation to the areas of your face where you need a little coverage. You can always mix the colours of your foundation to make making your base a little lighter or darker according to the season. Alternatively try diluting your foundation with moisturiser for a lighter effect, or add some sunscreen for extra protection in the summer.
One of the best ways to look younger is to avoid applying foundation over the entire face, so concentrate only on the areas that need it, and blend your foundation out to leave the rest of the face looking natural. One of the best tricks I learnt from my favourite make-up artist to the stars, Martyn Fletcher, is to never put foundation over the lines around my eyes or my mouth. Remember that TV ageing trick!
For the best results apply your foundation using a small sponge with light feathery movements. Or, as I do, use your fingertips, the middle finger is best. Extra cover can be used to disguise flushed cheeks, veins, and spots and under eye bags. Use foundation or a concealer, again applied with a little brush or sponge. Or you could use one of the new magic wands, which contain light reflecting pigments, which are quick, and easy to use and can add brightness to tired under eyes in particular.
Because I am so often in the public eye, and very often photographed or filmed as part of my work, I prefer a matt look for my face. A matt face is more photogenic than a shiny one. However after dusting my face with a little translucent powder to achieve this look, my personal trick is to press a dampened sponge over my face. This creates a natural look by settling the powder which then stays in place all day looking good.
LIPS
When it comes to choosing lipsticks some women make the mistake of wearing the same colour for 15 years or more. It has to be said that, in one way she has been lucky if this is the case! It’s been my personal experience that whenever I found a colour I really liked the cosmetic companies discontinued the shade! I have a favourite shade of lipstick and lip pencil at the moment, so I do what other actresses and model friends of mine do. Being nervous that the colour will be discontinued I have bought several of them and am keeping them in the fridge for future use.
But unfortunately lips, like your complexion, tend to change with age. Their sharp outline softens; skin becomes dry and the colour of lips turn more blue. Beautiful full "Cupid bows" disappear, and the corners of the mouth begin to droop as the facial muscles relax. Fine lines begin to appear running down from nose to mouth, these are most noticeable on the faces of people who smoke. Lipstick has a tendency to "feather" on older lips, and is exaggerated even more if a lip-gloss is applied.
To outline your lips, and to avoid feathering, use a proper lip pencil but keep it sharpened. Alternatively use a lip brush. Using a shade slightly darker than your lipstick, and by outlining carefully and generously, you can create an illusion of fuller lips. I find that by lightly “filling in” the lips with a pencil or brush after outlining, it ensures that some colour will stay on my lips throughout most of the day. This is because many outline pencils seem to contain more stain than softer lipsticks, which come off too easily when we eat or kiss. Next, fill in the outline and cover with a lipstick of your preferred colour and texture. To help lipstick stay in place all day, you could also try powdering your lips before, and after applying your lipstick.
I have had to experiment with many lipsticks over the years in order to find a satisfactory one for me. Many women experience difficulties finding lipstick to suit them personally. Skin types and individual chemical make ups vary dramatically from one individual to another, and as many know to their cost, can change the colour of a lipstick over a period of time, quite dramatically! If you find your lipstick changes colour after some time it’s a good idea to apply a special barrier lipstick first. This forms a layer of protection from both the allergy to the colour, and the drying effects of sun and wind.
If you can’t find just the right colour you want, but like the texture of a particular product, try mixing several colours with your brush, until you get the one you want. If a lipstick is not the texture you like, the solution could be to add a little nourishing face cream. This is especially beneficial if your lips are very dry.
For further information see COSMETIC SURGERY- lips on page…..
BLUSHER
One of the biggest make-up mistakes we make comes from not knowing how to apply blusher and which areas are best to put it. The first trick is to use a large brush of good quality, don’t attempt to use the small brushes included when you purchase a blusher. They are quite useless. A soft, natural coloured blusher worn high on the cheekbones, will give a tired face a much needed glow, and enhance the eyes. No blusher at all, or too little blusher, can leave a face looking tired and washed out. The next trick is to apply blusher sparingly at first, and to gradually build up if a more dramatic look is required. Great for evenings or special occasions.
Experiment with colour and effects by brushing the blusher sparingly on the sides of the temples, or the chin, or lightly around the neck to create a pretty natural glow. When a powdered look is not required, cream blushers can give a particularly natural finish. If you mislay your blusher, or can’t find the right shade, you can avoid the dry look, by using your lipstick on your cheeks as a blusher. Whether you use a cream or a powder blusher is a question of personal choices, but always avoid using too many colours, it can appear harsh and false. Colour is a very individual choice, but whatever colour you choose, take care not to overdo it. Remember less is best.
EYES
For the purpose of make up, the eye can be split into 3 areas. The lid, the brow, and separating the two, the crease. The crease folds when the eye opens, so it can take the most colour, but what colour eyeshadow to use is a very personal choice. For many years I wore bright green and bright blue, because I thought they complimented my green eyes. At my first professional meeting with make-up artist Martyn Fletcher, I was introduced to brown and beige, which I soon realised were intensely flattering, and far less obvious than any colours I had worn previously. Personally, I avoid shimmer finishes because I find they accentuate every flaw and make my eyes appear tired. Their sparkle content irritates both my eyes and sensitive skin so I am happy to avoid them and to leave them to the youngsters! I have heard that some products contain fish scales, which may account for the reaction.
Using too much of any eye colouring isn’t flattering, and any excess tends to creep into lines, creases and folds drawing attention to an ageing skin. After 40 it's best to avoid all dramatic colours. The subtle use of colour should attract attention to eyes, but not overpower them. Too much of any colour across the lids isn’t flattering. When the wearer looks down and exposes a large splash of colour along the crease line it can look particularly unattractive. It’s fun to experiment with the application and colour of eye shadows and the right colour can work wonders for a worn out face. Silvery-grey and pink eye shadows work especially well on mature eyelids and can give a face that required lift.
The delicate skin around the eyes naturally loses elasticity with age and the crepey skin needs to be treated delicately. Avoid drawing attention to crepey skin by concentrating your eye colour nearer to the lash line. A great way of achieving a flattering effect is to use a foundation on your eyelid, which is four shades darker than the one you would use on your face. When you blend it in well it can give the illusion of a good eye shadow but it looks extremely pretty and natural. When you do find the correct colour to use on your eyes you will discover that it makes a dramatic difference to your looks. Slate blue eyeshadow is fabulous if your hair is grey. Brown eye shadow seems to flatter all eye colours and I find this most suitable for my green eyes. Plum and lavender eyeshadows have the effect of making green eyes even greener. Try an experiment with the following eye colours and shadows - you could be pleasantly surprised by the result.
• Brown eyes mauve, olive, plum, camel, taupe, green
• Green eyes camel, taupe, orchid, plum lavender
• Blue eyes grey, mauve, olive, plum, navy, rose
• Hazel eyes grey, heather,olive, cocoa, apricot, peach
• Violet eyes taupe, olive, mauve,dark green
If your eyes are puffy it could be that you are not getting enough sleep. Tiredness soon shows. Perhaps alcohol or stress is making your circulation and lymphatic drainage system, which is around your eyes sluggish. Being a non-smoker I find that the smoky air in pubs and clubs makes my eyes itchy, red and uncomfortable. There are many preparations and soothing eye gels on the market to help soothe tired eyes. But I find simple home made remedies can really help. A couple of used cold tea bags or a couple of slices of cucumber (preferably straight from the fridge) placed on my eyes for 10 minutes, effectively reduces any puffiness or redness.
Whether to use Kohl or eyeliner can depends on a persons individuality, age, and occasion. Using too much Khol or eyeliner can have the effect of closing the eye up. All too often it is badly applied and quite frankly, looks a mess. Brown eyeliner is more flattering than black on an older face. White eyeliner is another option and worth experimenting with. By running it along the lower rims of your eyelids it has the opposite effect and can open up your eye. Applying any make up can be a problem as we age, due to the changes in our eyesight, and most mistakes occur whilst applying eye make up. It could be worth investing in special make up glasses, which have lens that can be individually lifted to facilitate easy and accurate application.
When it comes to applying mascara my personal tip is to apply brown mascara (more flattering for mature women) first down over the to p of the top lashes, then brush it up from underneath. It has the effect of giving eyelashes that extra oomph! Be selective when buying your mascara. It’s best to leave the dramatic fibre enriched mascara for special occasions only. Waterproof mascara needs to be removed with special eye cleanser, which I find can be harsh on the delicate skin around my eyes. As far as I am concerned waterproof mascara is best kept for beach holidays or emotional moments. Removing non-waterproof mascara is easier and kinder to the skin! One way to make your eyes sparkle and open up for special occasions is to use eyelash curlers. Another way to give your eyes an instant lift is to shape up your eyebrows. If you are fainthearted have it done professionally. Conversely encourage definition by using an eyebrow pencil to fill in if your brows are sparse.
For further information see COSMETIC SURGERY – eyes on page ……
EQUIPMENT
Your makeup will be easier to apply and the results will look so much better if you use the right tools. Remember “a bad workman always blames his tools”……. Make a start by throwing away those horrid little brushes, which come in the box when you buy a new eye shadow or blusher. The majority of them are useless, hard to use and with bad results. Treat yourself to a decent set of brushes – the best quality you can afford. If you look after them well they can last you for years. Brushes will stay in better condition if you keep them upright and it’s important to keep them clean and in shape. For travelling I remember a trick I learnt from my good friend and makeup artist Martyn Fletcher. He uses a loo roll to protect the big brushes (blusher), and protects the smaller ones (eyeshadow, eyeliner and lip brush) with a straw. Both are most effective. A small combined eyelash brush and eyebrow comb can put the finishing touch to well shaped eyebrows, and can be used to separate eyelashes clogged up with mascara for a well-groomed finish.
COSMETIC SURGERY
Ageing American film stars with a desire to hold onto their looks started the craze for cosmetic surgery back in the 1950’s. Nowadays it’s rare to find a 50 year old American woman who hasn’t undergone some form of cosmetic surgery. Plastic surgeons on the other side of the Atlantic have been busy for years seeking to eradicate the signs of ageing. By contrast, British women have taken their time to pluck up the courage to go “under the knife” in order to hold back the passage of time. One major reason for them not taking the plunge was that until recently cosmetic surgery was extremely expensive here in the UK. Far too expensive for the average British woman to even contemplate. But without doubt the biggest deterrent of all, apart from expense, has been public opinion.
In past generations the majority of women in the UK regarded cosmetic surgery as unacceptable and vain. Even correcting birthmarks or defects of nature was considered to be conceited and was viewed as “meddling with nature”. Defects were to be stoically accepted as merely what one was born with, and along with irregular features, poor skin lines and wrinkles were to be stoically accepted. In short you were expected to accept and put up with your lot. In Britain up until the 1950’s vanity was discouraged and young girls were taught that looks were unimportant. It was a woman’s inner beauty that was important, and that was all that mattered
However recent market research has shown that these traditional British attitudes are changing dramatically and a recent report by market analysts Mintel showed that there has been a 30% rise in cosmetic surgery operations over the past 5 years – for both women and men. Four women out of ten now say they would consider plastic surgery. Figures for facelifts eye surgery, resculpturing of the nose and removal of liver spots, just a few of the many operations available are increasing rapidly. Today you don’t need to be an ageing film star to either want or be able to afford surgery. Nowadays many more women are financially independent and in consequence if they require it, expensive cosmetic surgery is within their reach.
There is also evidence to prove that women are being pressurised into maintaining their looks youth and beauty for as long as possible, in order to compete with other younger women, both in the workplace and on the social circuit. The attitude of society towards women (and men) who undergo cosmetic surgery is changing too. It is now very nearly considered to be acceptable! However the secretive and negative attitude still persists with few women admitting to having had surgery. A recent poll showed that four out of ten women would consider having an operation to enhance their appearance, if they could afford to. Cosmetic surgery doesn’t come cheap
That I haven’t considered facial cosmetic surgery for myself is I suppose largely due to the fact that I have had to undergo extensive surgery many times already for medical reasons. Of course I too see the familiar signs of ageing every time I look in the mirror and I observe that everything appears to be gradually slipping downwards, due to gravity! On a bad day I wish I could wave my magic wand (as I do in my role as Pantomime Fairy Godmother) and reverse the trend with an instant face-lift. But I’m a coward, and for the time being I am content to observe with great interest, my girlfriends who have succumbed to the surgeon’s knife. The majority appear delighted with the “lift” it has given them - both physically and psychologically.
Some people put themselves through their ordeal of cosmetic surgery, not only to hold back the passage of time, but more importantly to correct an abnormality (albeit small) which has constantly upset them throughout their life. Rid of their “flaw” which quite possibly had grown out of all proportion in their mind, they report that they finally feel normal, uninhibited, and happy. Some women confess to having previously felt some form of isolation even since their childhood, caused by what they had perceived as their “deformity”. Surgeons who are convinced that a patient is genuinely distressed by their flaw can recommend that for the patients psychological well being the operation could be considered being performed on the NHS. But there can be a delay; the waiting lists are long.
Critics of cosmetic surgery should be reminded that most women use expensive make up every day to improve or make changes to their looks without any conscience. Cosmetic surgery simply makes many of these temporary improvements more permanent. It is interesting to note that cosmetic surgery is no longer confined to any one group, women in all sections of UK society and income groups are either considering, or having it done. Now a few more women are prepared to talk more openly about their surgery. Many consider it not as a vanity or self-indulgence, but purely as necessary self- maintenance, which can enhance appearance and may improve career prospects. This attitude is particularly relevant to mature professional women, and women at the top of their chosen careers, who wish to stay there. They view holding onto their looks as an element in helping them do so.
In the United States women have had this attitude for a long time and the media, TV, films and magazines, promote the feeling that superficial beauty means happiness and success. Sadly many women can be left feeling condemned losers without it. American women are constantly updated with details of the latest personality or star to succumb to the knife. They are regaled with the details such as which who performed the procedure, and at what cost. They can read reports and comments from the recipients of cosmetic surgery, women who assure them that surgery has perfected their beauty, given them confidence and has generally enhanced their life.
For many ordinary women it seems only fair for them to wish to follow the example, and if they can fund it they too undergo surgery. Expectations are high. They hope and desire the cosmetic surgery to improve not only their looks, but also the quality of their life, including their love life. But is the expense really worth it, and do the results come up to the patient’s expectations?
For some women feelings of inadequacy can disappear along with the wrinkles and if the surgery does come up to their expectations it can produce huge psychological effects. Many women report dramatic improvements in their social standing due to their new-found confidence as a result. Women who have suffered from severe bouts of depression may discover that as a result of successful cosmetic surgery they feel much better about themselves and some that have been dependent on anti-depressants many finally gain the confidence to kick the habit. Others who have been able overcome their shyness after surgery are so confident about their looks that they no longer cringe from the intimacy and scrutiny of their partners. They report that their sex life improves and finally, feeling young and flirty they can make love with the lights on! But in their moment of abandonment perhaps they should remember that face and hands wouldn’t necessarily match!
Successful cosmetic surgery can have dramatic consequences; it can change the way a woman feels about herself. With new-found confidence some women discover they suddenly attract more interest from men and out of their previous character they find themselves responding to these advances with interesting results. The surgery can change a women’s way of life itself and consequently can create permanently changes in other people’s lives. Some women feel a sense of new found freedom and leave their partners to seek a new life and equally, some men find that they too may want to quit a relationship after their woman partner has had surgery. Some discover that the partner they once knew and loved has changed not only physically, but emotionally too, and the quiet, shy woman they loved to protect, has changed into a strident women who they find quite overbearing.
Of course there is good and bad news when it comes to cosmetic surgery, and there are bound to be some failures. Surgical failures are rare but very real, and the results can ruin a woman’s life. But many more are perceived as failures by patients who had put too much faith in cosmetic surgery, hoping it would be the miracle cure and solve some major crisis in their life. Unrealistic expectations can occur when patients think they will be able to hold onto an erring partner or a job, by resorting to cosmetic surgery in order to make them look younger or more attractive. An unsuccessful and disappointed woman may regret her surgery and blame it for her failure or loss. But in reality there can be no promise that expensive cosmetic surgery will solve problems.
Those opposed to cosmetic surgery will argue that it is preferable to grow old gracefully with a pleasant face wrinkled with character. Looking at recent press reports and photographs of Mrs Wilderstein, the wife of an American cosmetic surgeon, it is apparent that we all have different perceptions of beauty and success. To many of us Mrs Wilderstein’s extensive and expensive surgery appeared quite terrible. Her face looked like a mask, stretched out and devoid of character. However the lady herself seemed more than thrilled with the hideous results and like a minority of women addicted to surgery. Most women contemplating surgery are content with less and more subtle improvement after a face-lift or other facial surgery. Gentle and natural rather than extraordinary! A younger and fresher look that provokes comments and compliments as to how well one is looking, must surely be preferable to an inquisition about obvious facial changes. Surgery is a risk and expectations vary. There can be no absolute guarantee against disappointment.
Those who have had a face-lift inform me that it helps to have a surgeon recommended. One whose work you can see on the face of your other friends and acquaintances! So check out the surgeon or consultant and his/her reputation. Communication with whoever is going to perform the operation is particularly important. The surgeon must know and understand what your expectations are and equally you must understand his/her limitations. The surgeon will make a careful examination of your face and this is the opportunity for you to explain exactly what you want. . Before any final decisions are made or permission is given for an operation to place, it is essential to know all you can about the procedure and possible complications. Ask questions and find out where the incisions are proposed - and how long the scars and bruising will take to fade. Check whether the surgery may produce a temporary or permanent loss of sensation, you need to be prepared for slight numbness. If at all possible ask to talk to a former patient who has undergone the operation or procedure you are contemplating. Ask for the details of your proposed operation to be written down – it’s all too easy to forget what is being suggested in the heat and confusion of the moment.
If you can arrange to meet up with someone who has previously had similar surgery remember that we have individual skin and healing properties, and that we respond differently both physically and mentally. The only person who can make the final choice to have cosmetic surgery is you. You alone take the risk and the responsibility for what is going to happen to your face. Perfection and satisfaction is strived for of course, but it cannot be guaranteed. In any operation some pain and discomfort is unavoidable and there is an ever-present risk of complications, bad scarring or at worst, deformity. Patients must be convinced they are undergoing the discomfort for the right reason. They must only undertake cosmetic surgery for their own satisfaction, never for someone else’s.
Earlier we looked at what causes skin ageing, and found that skin looses its plumpness and becomes thinner and dryer with the years. Collagen and elastin in the skin break down, bone shrinks, muscles lose their tone and stretch with age. Faces sag and "drop" helped on by the forces of gravity resulting in drooping eyebrows, wrinkles, lines, hoods and bags around the eyes, jowls and turkey necks. Sun damaged skin begins to feel rough, pore size increases, tiny broken veins start to show and age spots and dark patches appear. Oh dear it sounds all too familiar, I think we all get the sad picture! Include all our worst habits such as inactivity, poor diet, smoking, drinking, sunbathing, stress, lack of fresh air, and add facial habits like frowning and squinting to complete the gloomy picture.
But help could be on hand, so check out the following cosmetic surgery-shopping list - if you have the cash and the courage. (Alternatively the fainthearted can check out “ The natural face lift” facial exercise programme on page… ……)
Copyright and thanks to Diana Moran http://primetimelife.tv
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